Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces

Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a police siren pierces the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds form.

This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with round purplish grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of Bristol downtown.

"I've seen individuals hiding heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a loose collective of growers who make wine from several discreet urban vineyards nestled in private yards and allotments throughout the city. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Wine Gardens Around the Globe

To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of the French capital's renowned Montmartre area and over 3,000 grapevines with views of and within Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards assist cities stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. They preserve open space from development by creating long-term, productive farming plots inside cities," says the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, landscape and history of a urban center," adds the spokesperson.

Mystery Polish Variety

Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he comments, as he removes damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Throughout the City

Additional participants of the collective are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about 50 plants. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."

Grant, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously endured three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from this land."

Sloping Vineyards and Natural Production

Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established over 150 vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple dark berries from lines of plants arranged along the hillside with the help of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the growing number of establishments specialising in low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage."

"When I tread the fruit, the various wild yeasts are released from the skins and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Conditions and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to plant her grapevines, has assembled his friends to pick white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem faced by winegrowers. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on

Jonathan Miles
Jonathan Miles

A seasoned journalist with a passion for uncovering stories at the intersection of technology and society.